Johnnycakes, one of Rhode Island's historical indigenous foods, are best served at breakfast as a solo entry or as a companion to eggs with sausage or bacon. During the state's colonial Yankee yesteryear the dough mix of cornmeal, salt, and water was seldom sweetened with sugar which was too costly and in short supply. Little Rhody's modern johnnycake is fried cornmeal gruel, made from yellow or white cornmeal, mixed with salt and hot water or milk, and lightly sweetened. Post colonial johnnycakes are served with maple syrup or honey, though purists protest this revolutionary act.
Road warriors will want to note that our culinary celebration of May Day held in church halls across the state replete with hearty breakfast fare such as fried and scrambled eggs, sausage and ham--typically includes johnnycakes in the southern part of Rhode Island. In fact, the Kenyon Corn Meal Company, a gristmill whose company history dates back to the early 1700s, is located in Usquepaug of these southern parts. Having ground johnnycake cornmeal for centuries, these millers exonerate the expression "back to the old grind."
A 16 oz. box of Kenyon's Johnnycake Corn Meal, a white stone ground mix, may be purchased at local supermarkets for approximately .49. Like our forefathers, you can become a true Patriot, Yankee Doodling a johnnycake recipe found in Yankee Magazine, calling for these ingredients: 1 cup Kenyon's Johnnycake Meal, ½ teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon, sugar, boiling water, and milk. Combine first three ingredients. Pour boiling water over mixture very slowly, adding just enough to swell the meal. Let it sit several minutes, and then add enough milk so mixture will drop from a spoon. Heat greased pancake griddle or iron skillet and spoon batter onto hot surface. Turn to brown other side. Serve with maple syrup and butter.
Rhode Islanders and out-of-town roadies who prefer to lift a fork sitting at a counter or booth may frequent one of the rare local restaurants serving up johnnycakes, thick or thin:
JP Spoonem's on 1678 Broad St., Cranston-- maple flavored johnnycakes, their specialty; for an interesting twist, the Johnnycake Platter features a slice of hand-carved ham between two johnnycakes topped with melted Swiss cheese, along with hash browns and spiced apples on the side.
Beacon Diner on 2938 South County Trail, East Greenwich-- a diner which has expanded into a homey restaurant, distinguishable by a little lighthouse on its roof.
Jigger's Diner on 145 Main St., East Greenwich-- housed in a 1950s Worcester Lunch Car.
Bishop's 4th Street Diner on 184 Admiral Kalbfus Rd., Newport-- traditional shiny 50's style diner.
Commons Lunch on 48 Commons Way, Little Compton --open since 1966, the original 104-year-old building was a barbershop, a grain store, and a soda fountain.
Station House Restaurant on 3711 Kingstown Rd., West Kingston-- old train pictures on the wall add character to this establishment across the way from the historical Kingstson Station.
Hurrah for johnnycakes, dandy Yankee flatbread hot off the griddle of colonial history. One by land or two by sea, johnnycakes are worth the ride to any of these dives.
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